Hammertime!

Harmattan (not to be confused with Hammertime winds, which incidentally, do not actually exist) have made Ghana so hazy for the past week or so. It's not been as unbearably hot though, so I'm not going to complain.

This weekend I along with six others (Marika (here's your shoutout, you're practically famous now), Caroline, Leah, Griffin, Katja, and Jake) went away to a beach called Kokrobite (I had the most difficult time pronouncing this...I think I finally got it though...it's Co-Crow-Bee-Tay). It all kind of started as a "Hey...we should do that" kind of plan, but we actually pulled it off and it was pretty freaking awesome. AND it only cost about 20 Cedi for the whole thing...lodging, food, transportation, drinks, entertainment.

So, Saturday morning, I made the rounds waking everyone up because I refused to waste the day and wanted to get out of Church by 11. I called the place we were headed to, Big Milly's Backyard, and reserved the last available room (a room meant for four people...we comfortably slept seven). We left Church slightly past the intended departure time but still before noon so I was pleased. In order to get to Kokrobite, you can take a taxi or a tro-tro (random Ghanaian form of transportation. They're like these really old 16 or 20 passenger vans that aren't entirely safe, but the only real way to get around. Plus they are sooooo incredibly cheap.), and we opted for the tro-tro. Getting the tro-tro was probably the most difficult part of the whole trip. It's all kind of a word of mouth thing, and through that, we heard that we had to get to Kaneshie to get the Kokrobite tro-tro. We took two taxis to Kaneshie, got separated, but eventually found each other after some very impressive "see that half red-half white building on the corner" directions. After we united we had to find the area where to Kokrobite bound tro-tros were. Luckily everyone we asked was really helpful and tried to point us in the right direction...directions were a little vague sometimes though. "Up" wasn't really that helpful, but it was the thought that counted. After stopping at several wrong tro-tros we found one that was going to Kokrobite that we could all fit on. While we waited for it to fill up (tro-tros will only leave once EVERY seat is full) we delighted in some FanIce.

So FanIce is pretty much the most amazing thing ever. It's this ice cream/frozen yogurt/frozen chocolate milk, that comes in a little plastic pillow-like pouch. You bite of the corner and then just squeeze the tasty contents into your mouth. Best of all it's only 30 pesawas (Ghanaian version of cents) and it's sold be these people who walk down the lanes of traffic. To get one you just signal to the guys who are holding it on their head and they come over and the whole transaction takes about 20 seconds.

Okay, so FanIce aside, after the tro-tro filled up we were on our way. It was a pretty cool ride just to see the different scenery. It's easy to forget that Accra is a city and is not necessarily indicative of the rest of Ghana, and while Kokrobite is only about 45 minutes away from the city center, it's totally different. The area was much more village like and there were many more goats and chickens roaming freely. The landscape was also much more lush (lusher?) and full of palm trees. So when we got to the end of the tro-tro line we still had to walk for like ten minutes, so we got to see the village close up.

After we checked in to our room which had three beds, two singles and a double...WITH mosquito nets (SO AFRICAN!) all for 39 Cedi a night (not bad when split seven ways) we through on our bathingsuits and headed straight for the beach. The beach was so gorgeous. Kokrobite is a fishing village and so all these long awesome boats were on the beach/in the water. We spent all afternoon on the beach where I proceeded to eat four bananas in the course of about ten minutes. We frolicked in the water and Griffin even got her hair braided by a small child.

For dinner we ate at the restaurant at Big Milly's Backyard. Most of us got some form of groundnut soup. It was the biggest portion of life and absolutely delicious and for 8 cedi the night's entertainment (a live reggae band and dancing) was included. The entertainment seemed like a great thing and it was until we decided to go to sleep only to realize that our little bungalow was right behind the stage and it was RIDICULOUSLY loud. Astonishingly, we all managed to fall asleep and stay asleep in the cramped loud quarters.

Well, we stayed asleep until about 5:30am when we thought it would be a great idea to go see the monkeys at the local monkey sanctuary. FALSE. It was a bad idea. And it didn't actually happen. But we went back to sleep and woke up a few hours later for the beach. We had a great breakfast for 40 pesawas each (these awesome bun/donuty sorts of things that a girl was selling on the beach) and spent the morning on the beach. After a couple hours we settled up the bill (my share was 19 Cedi) and headed home.

Going Away for the Weekend in Ghana:
Travel: 2 Cedi
Lodging: 6 Cedi
Drinks: 4.5 Cedi
Food: 10 Cedi (for three meals)

Total: 22.5 Cedi (Many FanIce included!)

I just really want a banana...and pineapple juice...and orange juice...all mixed together

I really love how on my way to classes, or during class, I can get the best bananas of my life for less than 10 cents a pop. Delicious bananas have made class less gross and I can say that with confidence as the first week of classes is pretty much over now. My final schedule is not entirely what I anticipated but it's cool.

Monday: No Class
Tuesday: 8:00-9:25 Internship Seminar
10:30-1:25 History of the Atlantic Slave Trade
3:30-6:25 Documenting the African City
Wednesday: 10:00-12:55 Projects in Photography
Thursday: 11:00-1:55 Popular African Music
Friday: No class

They all seem like they'll be pretty awesome classes, and it looks like I'll probably be getting a minor in Africana Studies. I'm not sure where I'll be interning yet. Most likely it will be a place called the Legal Resource Centre, which deals with human rights issues. I'm trying to set it up so I can intern at the UNHCR but I don't know if that will be possible yet. I already got my first assignment for my photo class which I'm pretty excited about. We have to take a portrait of a fellow classmate (mine happens to be Griffin...not only do we own Cranium together, but we'll take awesome pictures together too) and do an interview a la the New Yorker. I'm excited to put my new camera to some good use and take some great pictures.

Other than classes, I've been keeping busy. The Inauguration was pretty exciting here. It was pretty astounding to see how many people (not just Americans) came out to view the election. We went to see it at the W.E.B. Dubois Centre near the US Embassy. It was a huge outdoor event with tons and tons of Ghanaians. The Ghanaians seemed more excited than a lot of the Americans. They had the craziest Obama gear (like traditional African fabrics with his face printed on them). I wore my Obama shirt in the morning on the day of the Inauguration and every single person I passed on my way to class said something to the effect of "YEAH OBAMA!!!!!!!!" It was a pretty cool experience to see it here in Africa surrounded by so many people. I'll get around to posting pictures of the event at some point...hopefully.

So yesterday I as totally shocked when me, Griffin, Mallory and Leah all went to a ShopRite Supermarket. It was totally like walking into a Wal-Mart in America. Strangely enough too, it was in a really modern looking mall that just seemed so incredibly out of place in Africa. I'm not going to fight it though...prices were a lot cheaper than at the Koala Supermarket and I was able to stock up on some pasta and jam and whatnot. While I was browsing the pasta, a Ghanaian approached me to ask if he could take my picture. I was pretty thrown off by the proposition as I wasn't doing anything particularly interesting, but then as a friend pointed out to me it's just as absurd when I ask to take pictures of the Africans selling their goods in the market or whatever. Foreign is foreign and it's pretty interesting. Plus, I'm about as white as they come, so maybe the guy was just amazed by my paleness. ALSO SHOCKING: Strawberries were 20 Cedi! Grapes were 18 Cedi! And those were small packages! I guess it just goes to show that it's best to buy the local fruit. Plus it's silly not to when they are the best bananas of life.

Last night a bunch of us went to Reggae Night at Labadi Beach. It was sooooooo much fun. Basically, it's a bunch of foreigners (Labadi is pretty touristy), Rastas, and random Ghanaians all dancing in the sand to live reggae music. It's a weekly thing, so I'm sure I'll be hitting it up again. I do have to say though, it was not easy getting up this morning for my African Popular Music class, so I'll probably have to moderate my Wednesday night partying.

And also just a few pros and cons of living in Africa:

PRO: I get to go dancing on the beach for reggae night any Wednesday I want.
CON: LOST premeired last night, and being the fanatic that I am, I bought the season pass on itunes. Unfortunately, Ghana is still a developing country, and internet is hella slow. Only 8 hours remaining on my download!

PRO: Last night a dress maker came to take measurements, designs and fabrics that we bought at the market. I'm getting a $395 JCrew dress made for 5 cedi. Factoring in the cost of the fabric, we're at about 8 Cedi. AND it's a custom made dress.

PRO: Bananas!

peace and love

School Starts Tomorrow...GROSS

I've been in Ghana for a week. It seems like forever and like no time at all at the same time. The past few days have been a lot of fun. On Thursday, we toured the neighbourhood with the CRAs and met some professors. That night a huuuuge group of us went out for a scheduled "Night on the Town." The staff took us to an outdoor bar/live music venue in Osu where we danced for hours. It was a big tourist spot definitely, but still fun. Friday we went to the Artist Alliance Gallery to see the work of West African artists and then we went to the Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum (pictures below). That night I went out with some friends to another outdoor bar situation called Celsbridge's. We were the only Obrunis (white people) in the whole place! It was great and it's within walking distance of our house. Yesterday we went to a place called Kaneshi Market. I bought a fabrics to have made into a dress (the fabric was about 2 Cedis a yard, and to get a dress made is about 5 Cedis) and fresh fruit. I got a pineapple, oranges, and about 12 bananas for 2 Cedis. I also got some bulk rice (about a pound) for 1 Cedi. Today we went to brunch and then spent the afternoon at Labadi Beach.

School starts tomorrow. Gross.

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, Kaneshi Market, and More

More BORE-ientation

Orientation has continued for better or worse. I'm getting so antsy doing all this prescribed NYU stuff. I'm sure it's all very valuable, but the academic center doesn't have a single space large enough to handle all of us so we're stuck sitting outside (under shade thank god) for hoursssss. Not fun at all. I really just want to go out and explore Accra.

Yesterday, we were able to get a little taste of life outside Labone (the suburb where NYU in Ghana is). We went to a nearby area called Osu which was soooooo much activity compared to what we had seen. There were all sorts of street vendors selling everything from power strips and trash cans to goofy touristy souveneirs and amaaaaaaaazing fabrics. We had lunch at a place called Frankie's which was pretty much just American food (the place was also full of white people). After lunch a few others and I separated from the group to explore the area. We made our way to a Barclay's ATM where I was able to withdraw money without a fee, got told we were rude for not buying goods when we were harassed, and went to a supermarket that carries a lot of imported goods (they had Skippy peanut butter!). Afterward we all headed back to the academic center for a Twi lesson. Then after some free time we had dinner at Sunshine Salads, the other restuarant on our meal plan. The place has curries and salads and sandwiches...quite different from the Ghanaian food at Tante Marie.

Today's orientation was really focused on academics. We toured Ashesi University which is about two minutes from the academic center. I think I'm going to take a class on African music and dance there. After we had a lecture on cultural dos and don'ts (Note: Thumbs up good, Thumbs down good, Thumb in up/down motion vulgar) and one on the history of Ghana. We then headed to the University of Ghana Legon to see about taking classes there. I was really interested in taking a Human Rights in Africa class there, but it conflicts with an NYU class I want to take, so I'll be sticking with the one at Ashesi. The campus was HUUUUUUGE. It was pretty overwhelming, but awesome to see all the Ghanaian students (as well as other study abroad students). After returning to Labone, a few of us visited a local wine shop (Chateau Simon) and got four bottles of wine for about 20 Cedis and then headed back home to rest before dinner at Tante Marie. ONE WORD: PLANTAINS. I'm in love with them. Low key night after dinner. It was definitely a rough day with a lot of sun.

TWI LESSON!

Wo ho te sen? - How are you?
Me din de - My name is

Yaaaaaay Ghana!

As of right now I've been in Ghana for about 24 hours. It's definitely been a loooooooooooong day. Last night, we (several other students were on my flight) arrived at Kotoka International Airport about a half hour past schedule, but with no problems. After making it through Immigration (where the authorities had a rather humorous sign posted saying something to the effect of "If you're a pedophile or plan on being one while you're here in Ghana, turn around" right under AKWAABA ("welcome" in Twi)), we moved to get our luggage. Everything arrived safely. Toward the exit NYU in GHANA staff met us and after waiting for a bus to return, we were on our way.

I live in the housing facility called Church Crescent (apparently named after the street it's on...news to me.). It's four individual houses, each with three bedrooms, four bathrooms, a kitchen, laundry room, dining room, and living area. The houses share a common courtyard and so far it seems like it'll be a pretty sweet living situation. I have a bunk bed. Top bunk. 'Nuff said. Last night I took a cold shower only come to find out today that the water heater switch in the bathroom actually had to be turned. I'd say it was one of my more intelligent moves. Between last night and this morning I completely unpacked and have already made a mess of my personal space. I'm also in the process of hanging up pictures on the wall with my unapproved tape...I'm such a rebel.

Today started with a severe lack of sleep (which I'm going to blame on all the sleep I got on the airplane). After waking up early, breakfast was had (food the CRAs (community residential assistants...or something of the like?) had provided) and then we all hopped in some vans and headed to the academic center. We were given a short tour of the five or so rooms and then proceeded with Orientation. After a couple hours we went to a Forex Bureau and exchanged dollars for Cedis then continued on to lunch. Lunch was surprisingly good. There was a ton of Ghanaian dishes, most of which I tried (I'm turning over a new leaf and being adventurous). My favourite at lunch was Groundnut Stew...there was also mad good rice and chicken and plantains. At lunch, a cell phone vendor came and I purchased a pay-as-you-go phone for 45 Cedis. Afterward, we headed back to our residences for a little break then a meeting with our CRAs. This evening we went to dinner at Tante Marie (one of the restaurants on our meal plan) and had more local dishes. Overall pretty good stuff.

Needless to say, it's been a long day and I'm pretty exhausted.
peace and love.